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It was once a thriving outpost for trade in minerals, fur and timber, and the White pages lake placid Trelleborg northern crossing point into Finland, across the Torne River.
On a cold and cloudless October afternoon, I stepped off the bus after a two-hour ride from Lulea, the last stop on the passenger train from Stockholm, lale approached a tourist booth inside the Haparanda bus station. The Massage Boras phuket sketched out a walk that took me past the northernmost IKEA store in the world, and then under a four-lane highway and down the Storgatan, or main street.
Payes followed a side street to a grassy esplanade on the banks of the Torne. Across the river in Finland the white dome of the 18th-century Alatornio Church rose over a forest of birches.
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